Solar Cable is not just any cable
Coastal Climate Control now offers the very best in solar cable. But what does this mean?
Most solar cable available contains just 7 untinned copper strands, whereas ABYC requires a minimum of 19 tinned copper strands. The solar cable that Coastal offers is UV, sunlight, and ozone proof, and is extremely flexible due to the high number (100+) of tinned copper strands.
Minimum outside diameter and maximum flexibility are the keys to reducing the hassle of installing solar cable between the panel(s) and controller, and these cables are the very best we could find after an exhaustive search.
Another great new solar offering from Coastal is the Philippi range of waterproof plugs and sockets. We are stocking a three-wire socket for attachment to the end of the cable from a solar panel, plus a corresponding three-wire plug to make a cable-to-cable connection. There is also a surface-mounted plug to make a cable-to-hard surface connection. (NOTE: Plugs and sockets are opposite to those found in homes, with the socket being on a flexible cord. The live, power-bearing component needs to be a socket for safety reasons.)
These very high quality Philippi items, supplied with waterproof caps for when the plug or socket is not in use, are rated for 230v AC and up to 50v DC, and have a protection rating of IP66.
These three-wire connectors are ideal for use when installing Solara solar panels in semi-permanent locations with the EZ Mount or for other applications where a high-quality waterproof connection is required. Four-wire and seven-wire versions are available by special order.
If Solara Power M panels are mounted directly on to a deck or hard top, a waterproof deck gland is normally required to enable the cable to be directed down below. The small, mouse-like Scanstrut horizontal deck gland is the perfect size for the cable supplied with these panels, and is very unobtrusive.
These Solar Panels are The Best - Guaranteed!
Are you confused about the wording on some solar panel guarantees and/or warranties? Well, you're not alone, but first let's define what is a guarantee and what is a warranty.
Guarantee:A formal promise or assurance (typically in writing) that certain conditions will be fulfilled, especially that a product will be repaired or replaced if not of a specified quality and durability.
Warranty: A written guarantee, issued to the purchaser of an article by its manufacturer, promising to repair or replace it if necessary within a specified period of time.
So a guarantee looks to be more like a loose promise, whereas a warranty is in written form and contains a guarantee with certain time limits. In this discussion we'll assume we're working with written warranties, whether packaged in with the product, or more likely these days, posted somewhere on a manufacturers' web site.
Residential and commercial solar panels come with warranties that are very different to those accompanying marine solar panels. These aluminum-framed glass panels are fabricated by automated processes in huge numbers where quality can be closely controlled and monitored, and so their construction is normally warranted for two years.
But there is also a warranty on the power output, where typically 80% of the rated output is guaranteed after 20 years or so in operation. This is feasible to implement due to the fact that the utility company or solar provider constantly monitors the output from day one, and so an ongoing record is available.
The power output of silicon solar cells naturally degrades slightly over time, and so this slow loss of performance is quite predictable.
So what happens if the power output of the panels on your roof of your house has degraded beyond the warranty limits after the 20 or 25 years or whatever? Will the solar company come and replace your 20+ year old panels free of charge? Well no, but they will offer to ship one or two panels, for you to install, to make up the difference!
Soft, Hard, or Easy? Where does one possibly start?
Well let's start back 20+ years ago when I was actively servicing marine air conditioning and refrigeration systems.
In the heat of summer, I'd often get calls mid-week asking to check air conditioning that wouldn't start during the weekend and that was popping breakers. When tested during the week, these systems inevitably worked flawlessly, but a quick look at the vessel's docking situation usually gave a clue to the problem.
Older docks with older wiring, plus "senior" boaters that need lots of air conditioning, equals voltage reduction issues on sunny summer Sunday afternoons, especially for boats at the far end of the dock. The more occupied boats there are with air conditioning on, the lower the voltage will be at the end of the dock.
Once the voltage is reduced below a certain point, the electrical load required to start an air conditioning compressor, especially older types of compressors, is often too much for weak dock power supplies. Small, often portable, generators also often cannot provide enough power to start a large air conditioner, although it will happily power it once the compressor is up and running. So, what can we do to help a compressor get started on a weak power supply?